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PEARS & QUINCES

Two beautiful fruit that can lead the way in so many recipes at this time of year. We have garnered (bartered and begged for) a bumper quince crop – Vlad from his neighbours and me from my sister-in-law – and every time we enter The Cooks' Shed we are happy to be met by that restorative and comforting perfume.


We will be making membrillo – we will have to – so watch this space for tales of aching limbs from pushing pulp through a mouli and late nights slowly reaching the set point. But for now we are making best use of the fresh fruit. Our wonderful new duck dish includes a few slices gently sautéed, which cut through the savoury of the beans and the duck and complement the soft sourness of the kohlrabi kraut. Plus we have thoroughly upgraded our Bakewell tartlets. Tender poached slices push through fluffy frangipane to take this tart well beyond Bakewell.


Pears are ripe and some still firm. We are char-grilling thin slices and then pickling them in a sweet cider pickle. They are fruity, a little smoky and slightly acidic. There is no better match for our roast beetroot, balanced by our creamy labneh and nutty and umami emmer and fermented barley pilau to form one of our vegetarian mains.


Just to so you know, we also have a full and proper sticky toffee pudding, with full and proper custard. Just so you know.


(For other dishes please see the previous post.)


Matt & Vlad


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